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Installation
Finishing
Care
General
Problems
Installation:
Question 1
How should I choose a flooring contractor?
The most important thing you can do is ask for references
and then go look at the floors the contractor has installed,
or finished. Installing and finishing wood floors is a skill
and an art that is different for every person.
Also, be sure that the contractor you are considering is
familiar and experienced in the type of flooring and finish
you want. In fact, you may want to use the products the
contractor is most comfortable working with ---just because
he is good at using one product, this does not mean he would
be as good with every product.
Installation:
Question 2
Is there a reason to choose red oak over white oak, or
white oak over red oak?
The answer is yes! There are two main reasons one would
choose red or white in preference to the other. The first
reason is visual appeal. Some people prefer the pinkish cast
of red oak, while others feel the golden hue of white oak is
the best background color. Opinions vary because of personal
taste, the rooms color scheme, and the species of other
prominent woodwork in the room. Unfortunately, the white or
red issue is often solved by a contractor long before the
home owner (who might have a preference) gets involved with
the home.
The second reason which should affect the white/red
decision is the amount of traffic the floor will receive. Red
oak works well in many residential areas. However, white oak
wins hands down when it comes to the dreaded "heel
pecks". Therefore, for high traffic areas like foyers
and rooms for entertaining, taking a good look at white oak
might save a few headaches.
Installation:
Question 3
How should I install a floor with a decorative border?
As more builders and decorators use oak flooring in fine
homes, we have noticed a dramatic increase of interest in
these kinds of custom designed floors. A border is not hard
to install, if you do it right!
Pre-planning is essential in good border installation.
Pre-measuring room, checking for squareness and dry-laying
border sections are advised.
The step-by-step guide shown below gives some outline
instructions. Also, we discuss border installation at both
our spring and fall installation schools.
Installing a Border
1. Select your design and decide how far it will extend
from the wall. Remember to allow for expansion.
2. Lay the field, that is the center area, either from one
side to the other or from the center-line toward opposite
walls.
3. The field boards can end on full board widths if
installed from the center out and the border width adjusted
by ripping the final wall strip.
It may be necessary to rip the last field board if
installing field from one side to the next, to insure a
balanced border.
Cut ends and edge of field (if necessary) equal-distance
from wall lines. Where all cuts were made, use a slotting
cutter and router to re-groove flooring and install
slip-tongue.
4. Blind nail first border run flush to field, starting at
corners and working toward center of run. Precision cut last
center board of each run on tongue end and fit. Proceed with
subsequent border runs in similar manner. (Use slotting
cutter to groove ends for slip-tongue if corners of border
are mitered. This is not necessary with "log cabin"
corners.) It will be necessary to face nail last 2 or 3
border runs.
Installation:
Question 4
Can I install my hardwood flooring parallel to the joist
direction?
NOFMA does not recommend laying flooring parallel to the
joist direction.
Some problems encountered when flooring is installed
parallel to joists are; unlevel floors, associated cracks
near joists, and movement of the flooring itself. However,
sometimes it may be unavoidable in small areas.
If it is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to run the flooring in the
same direction as the joists, and you have 3/4" plywood,
additional support should be provided by using solid blocking
on 24" centers between joists and in direct contact with
the subfloor. Blocking does not have to be full joist depth
2"x 6" SYP or equivalent should be sufficient.
If you are unable to add the necessary blocking, an
additional layer of ½" plywood laid over the existing
subfloor can work. Be sure that the additional plywood layer
does not break at the same places as the other layer of
plywood.
Installation:
Question 5
Can I install hardwood flooring on wood joists systems with
other than 16" on center spacing?
NOFMA's subfloor tests (1992) concluded that good
performance of 3/4" thick strip and plank flooring could
be obtained with 16" on center spacing and proper
subflooring. Today, with "Engineered Joists and
Trusses," spans and spacing are often encountered which
are longer and wider than with the solid wood members
previously tested. Even though these systems are properly
engineered for loads encountered, more deflection along the
length of the span and across the spacing is also often
encountered. 3/4" thick hardwood flooring can be
installed over these properly engineered systems, but the
expected "in use: performance of the flooring may
suffer. The added movement may influence the flooring to have
more than expected creaking and cracking between strips.
Also, as pieces flex and move against each other, surface
finishes may be stressed and show whitening along edges.
These possible results most often should be noted to the end
user.
Comparable performance of these floors to tested systems
may require an additional layer of subfloor material to
stiffen the system and/or stiffer joists or trusses.
Installation:
Question 6
Can I use Particle Board as a subflooring material.
NOFMA's recommendation for Subflooring: With 3/4"
thick strip flooring use either kiln dried boards of NO. 1 or
NO. 2 Common Pine or other dense, Group 1 softwoods suitable
for subfloors over wood joists, or exterior sheathing grade
plywood. If plywood, 5/8" (19/32") or 3/4"
(23/32") performance rated products are preferred. Also,
3/4" (23/32") OSB is a comparable substrate. With
1/2" thick strip flooring use a 3/4" (23/32")
subfloor.
The subfloor recommendation does not include particle
board. Particle board, a panel product made of saw dust
and or small wood chips, does not hold fasteners properly and
so cannot be recommended. The most common occurrence for
encountering particle board in a floor system is with
remodeling. Particle board or a composition board
underlayment is frequently used beneath carpet and vinyl.
When these products are encountered, and nail down flooring
is to be a replacement, NOFMA recommends removal of the
products. After removal, inspect the existing subfloor and
repair, re-fasten, or overlay to obtain a suitable subfloor.
Where removal of the particle board is not an option, the
recommended procedure is to overlay it with a minimum
5/8" plywood.
Installation:
Question 7
Can I install solid strip flooring over linoleum?
You can install solid strip floor over linoleum if it is
securely glued and there is a recommended subfloor material
underneath.
NOFMA recommends two types of installations for solid
strip or plank flooring over a concrete slab - - 2 X 4
sleeper method OR Plywood- on-slab method
A unidirectional strip floor is a nail-down application
only with strip flooring installed over wood joists with
plywood as the substrate, a minimum 5/8" plywood, or a
3/4" performance rated plywood is preferred.
An additional layer of 1/4" plywood, either Douglas
Fir or Southern Yellow Pine (not Luan), which is nailed to
the existing plywood would add to the stability of the
structure and should be applied at a 45° angle to the
existing flooring material. You then proceed with
installation of the flooring.
Installation:
Question 8
How can I install solid wood flooring over vinyl?
First the homeowner or the contractor must decide whether
to leave or remove the vinyl. If the vinyl is thin, or an
older vinyl (more than 7-years-old) made with asbestos, it is
less of an environmental risk to leave it in place. You can
pull up non-asbestos vinyl and dispose of it. Contact the
manufacturer to find out if your floor contains asbestos.
Second, find out what is under the vinyl. If you have a
recommended underlayment, at least 5/8" plywood or
3/4" OSB, with a thin vinyl on top, you can nail solid
flooring right on the old vinyl.
Many times vinyl is put on particle board or a composition
underlayment that will not hold hails. If you do not have a
recommended subfloor, you must either remove both the vinyl
and underlayment, or install another subfloor on top of the
vinyl. At minimum, this should be either 5/8" plywood or
3/4" OSB.
Cushioned vinyl, even if it is on a solid subfloor, can
allow movement between flooring strips. You may end up with
squeaks, and nails may not hold tightly to the subfloor.
Again, if it is an older floor you may want to leave it in
place, and begin with a new subfloor on top.
If you put a new subfloor down, 5/8" plywood subfloor
and 3/4" strip flooring, you are adding 1 3/8"
height to your floor. You can mitigate this with transition
strips. Anything over 1 1/2" may be too big a step. You
can opt for a thinner floor by using 1/2" strip
flooring. This is still considered a lifetime floor.
Installing wood flooring over a vinyl floor is a cost
effective and long-term solution to what to do with an
asbestos-laden vinyl floor. Experience has shown that it is
best to leave asbestos intact rather than removing it. If the
asbestos is kept encased, it should not pose a health risk.
Wood flooring gives homeowners the ability to cover their
vinyl floor with an attractive serviceable and lifetime
floor.
Installation:
Question 9
Can 15 lb. Felt paper be used as a vapor barrier?
The Association does NOT consider 15 lb. Felt a
vapor barrier. This product is used to help prevent squeaks
between subfloor and flooring - particularly in the winter
when floors are shrinking and loosen somewhat. The felt also
acts as a buffer and moisture retarder as the seasons change.
As moisture migrates into, through, or out of the floor
system, the felt helps prevent rapid changes and so helps
prevent extremes. Felt can also insulate from over heating or
drying above HVAC equipment. In addition, felt acts as a
slip-sheet and aids during installation.
In any event, the presence or absence of felt does not
make a wood floor perform perfectly or fail. However, it
enhances the performance of the floor.
Installation:
Question 10
How close should end joints be in a 3/4" x 2 ½"
nail down strip floor?
"Rack the floor. Lay out seven or eight rows of
flooring end to end in a staggered pattern with end joints at
least 6" apart
NOFMA does recommend that end joints be spaced 6" or
more along adjacent runs of flooring. However, an occasional
end joint spacing of less than 6" will not cause a floor
to fail. End joints in this case can be equated with
finishing irregularities for acceptance. The floor should be
inspected from a standing position, and when viewed as
described, the offending condition should not be prominent
throughout the floor. If the condition is prominent the
problem may need repairing. Normally, where 95% or more of
the pieces are distributed properly, the floor would be
acceptable. However, if all of the 5% problem joints are
located in a small area that particular area should be
repaired.
If a group of 3 or more end joints occur with 4" or
less spacing between each end joint, a weak area in the
flooring system is formed. Movement of the flooring with
associated noises, cracks and/or finish edge failure may
result from this condition if it is pervasive throughout the
floor.
Finishing:
Question 1
How many times can a solid wood floor be sanded?
A definitive answer can not be given because no two people
will sand a floor in the same manner. The amount of wood
removed will depend upon the number of papers (different
grits) the sanding machine operator uses and the manner in
which he moves the machine.
Normally, the operator will use three papers to sand a
floor. Some will only use two. This will depend on the
condition of the floor prior to sanding. Normally, a three
paper sanding will remove 1/64" to near 1/32" of
wood from the surface of the floor. A NOFMA member's
3/4" thick flooring product has 19/64" of wood
above the tongue so that a floor could be completely sanded
and finished numerous times (six to ten or more) before one
would reach a depth where the top of the groove edge is
weakened.
Typically when refinishing a recently finished floor to
change color or repair a problem finish, 1/64" or less
of the wood material is removed. Thus, even more sandings can
be performed on flooring that does not require the heavy
sanding procedures associated with long-term abuse.
If a floor has been abused - scratched, gouged, crowned,
un-level, etc. - a significant amount of material may have to
be removed to reach a level surface. Replacement of these
heavily damaged pieces may be the repair of choice in order
to keep from over sanding undamaged adjacent pieces.
In any case, a 3/4" flooring product is considered a
life-time product. Under normal conditions where
finishing/refinishing occurs each 15 or so years the
flooring, if not abused, will last as long as the structure.
Finishing:
Question 2
What are the dark specks or streaks that sometimes appear
in Red Oak flooring after finishing?
According to a report from Gene Wengert and Fred M. Lamb
of the Department of Wood Science and Forest Products,
Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Blacksburg, VA, "the
spots are actually dark deposits located within the large
conducting cells of oak called vessels." The deposits
are considered water soluble so the newer water based
finishes may allow the originally insignificant small black
speck to expand and become quite noticeable. Small pecks less
than 1/64" x 1/4" may show discoloration 1/16"
x 1" after application of a water based finish. As
described, the black specks in unfinished wood are small.
This small size is generally enough to be considered a grade
character for any grade. The number of specks would be the
limiting factor for CLEAR and/or SELECT grade flooring.
Finishing:
Question 3
How should I inspect my new hardwood floor?
Inspection should be done from a standing position with
normal lighting. Glare particularly from large windows,
magnifies any irregularity in the floors and should not
determine acceptance.
A finish similar to that found on fine furniture should
not be expected. Trash in the finish, a wavy look along
strips, deep swirls or sander marks, and splotchy areas can
be indication of inadequate finishing or cleaning. The
quality of the finish can be acceptable and still include
some of these problems, but they should not appear over the
entire floor.
The perimeter and hard to reach areas (i.e. under
radiators, around cabinets and cabinet cut-outs, closets,
corners, etc.) are most likely to contain these
irregularities.
Again, when inspected from a standing position these
irregularities may be present but should not be prominent.
Care: Question 1
How should I clean my hardwood floor?
The most important thing to do, is to first vacuum and
dust mop regularly, and as often as necessary. For some
families and most business, this may mean every day.
Don't damp mop on a weekly schedule, damp mop only as
needed, i.e., when the floor is dirty. Even then, cleaning on
a spot basis will suffice. Often the maid service will want
to do this weekly, but that will cause the finish to wear
faster.
When you do need to clean the floor, we recommend water
and vinegar and a lightly damp mop. You should not use
anything that leaves a residue. Even the products that spray
on the mop have silicones that can interfere with the finish
and oil-soaps can cause intercoat adhesion problems.
On a seal and wax finish, you should sweep or
vacuum up all grit, dirt and dust, then buff to renew the
shine. When the shine can not be renewed, then you must
re-wax the floor. With this type of finish you might only
need to re-wax small high-traffic areas. In any case, do not
use water on a waxed floor.
Be sure to follow the finish manufacturer's advice on your
floor. As a rule, do not use ammonia-based cleaners, they
tend to dull modern finishes. We do not advocate any
particular cleaning product. The finish manufacturers are the
best source for that information.
The best way to clean a hardwood floor, is to keep the
dirt and grit off! This means putting walk-off mats at all
exterior doors, and using floor protectors on chair legs.
Sweep or vacuum regularly, depending on your lifestyle. When
you leave dirt and grit on your floors, you are just grinding
the finish away. If you don't know what type of finish is on
your wood, ask a flooring contractor. Wax should be buffed or
cleaned with a renovator product.
Any hard surface, like polyurethane, you can use a
neutral, no-rinse cleaner. It's best to maintain your finish
with the manufacturer's product.
Use as little water as possible. Go back over the area
with a dry towel to make sure water does not sit on the
surface. Put an area rug in front of the sink, to keep water
off the floor.
Care: Question 2
How can I keep my wood floor from turning dark?
As most any wood product ages it's color will change. This
change is most often influenced by the nature of the wood
species and by light intensity or oxidation. Other factors
involve the finishing materials used on the flooring. The
finish products themselves also change color with age. The
degree of change with finishes is influenced by light
intensity and "UV" blockers in the finish. One
exception is with new oil modified "polys" less
than 22-3 months old. This material when covered or shaded by
rugs or other items will generally darken considerably. If
the shade is later removed a "partial" reversal
will take place over time.
General: Question 1
Can radiant heating systems be compatible with wood
flooring both solid and engineered?
"YES" with certain cautions and restraints.
First of all, check with the manufacturer for their
recommendations.
The most common recommendation for all systems is to have
the heating system installed and "on line",
running, before wood flooring products are delivered. Most
contractors report a minimum of 72 hours of heating is
required to dry the system; however, a week or more is
suggested. Light weight concrete, gypcrete, gypsum slurrys,
etc. tend to dry slowly so that the extra time is necessary.
For engineered flooring: adhesive applications,
the adhesive manufacturer should be consulted for
compatibility with the heating system. Engineered flooring
mechanically fastened, - use fasteners which do not extend
below the subfloor material.
For solid wood flooring, the following three
installation systems are the most common:
1) Plywood subflooring over the heated slab. If the
slab is on grade, above grade, in contact with the ground, or
over an uncontrolled environment; a vapor retarder of 6 mil
polyethylene, should be placed over the slab. Do not glue the
polyethylene. A proper subfloor can be composed of 2 layers
of 1/2" plywood, southern yellow pine or douglas fir.
The first layer is placed on the normal square of the room;
the second layer on a 45 degree angle to the first layer;
space 1/4" to 1/2" around the perimeter of panels
of both layers; pin plywood together with 7/8" ring
shank nails or screws; nail from center out on a 6" grid
pattern, avoid trapping a hump between layers; nail flooring
to plywood with fasteners which do not extend below plywood.
You may have to cut the nails for face nailing starter and
finish runs. An alternate method is to use 16" wide x 8'
long 3/4" thick plywood planks, scored across the back
3/8" deep every 12" or so. Score more often if
curling of the plywood is a problem. Lay these planks over
the slab perpendicular to the direction of the flooring and
stagger plank ends at least 2 ft. with up to 1" space
along edges and 1/8" to 1/4" space between ends.
Always use at least a 2 ft. length of plywood plank at
flooring starting wall and ending wall. Fill in short pieces
in the center of the room. Again use appropriate length
fasteners (1 1/2") for blind nailing and cut the nails
to less than 1 1/2" lengths for face nailing.
2) Conventional wood joist construction with heating
tubes fastened to the underside of the subfloor; with
this installation fastener length is important also. No
fastener should penetrate through the subfloor and risk
puncturing a tube.
3) Conventional wood joist construction with 3/4"
or thicker firring strips fastened to subfloor.
